TWO APPROVED DRUGS
The only drugs approved by the Food and Drug Administration to treat pattern baldness or hair loss is minoxidil topical solution (Rogaine), which is rubbed into the scalp and Propecia. Originally approved for hereditary male-pattern baldness in 1988, it was also approved for treating female-pattern hair loss in August 1991. However, it should not be used by pregnant or nursing women.
In his dermatological practice, Arthur P. Bertolino, M.D., Ph.D., director of the hair consultation unit at New York University, says that this lotion helps hair grow in 10 to 14 percent of the people who try it. He estimates that approximately 90 percent of the time, Rogaine at least slows down hair loss. (Minoxidil is also available in tablet form to treat severe high blood pressure. Oral minoxidil has a potential for serious side effects and is not approved to treat baldness.)
No one is certain yet just how topical minoxidil works to promote hair growth. "One theory is that it dilates the blood vessels, so it may stimulate nourishment of follicles," says Bihova. Alternatively, Rogaine may convert tiny hair follicles that produce peach fuzz into large hair follicles that produce normal-size hairs. Again, no one knows for sure.
What is certain is that, at least in men, Rogaine works better on patients who fit a certain profile: they've generally been bald for less than ten years, have bald spots on top of the head that are less than four inches in diameter, and they still have fine hairs in their balding areas. "The process begins very early," says Bihova. "I see 19-, 20-year-old males who have it."
The most common side effects with this medication are itching and skin irritation. Also, according to Bertolino, once you stop using it, any hair that grew as a result will fall out. Finally, the drug is expensive: in 1990, it cost about $600 a year to use it twice a day.
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